Review- David Léclapart
Living legend David Léclapart was introduced to me in my first year as a natural champagne enthusiast. It was the first day I stepped into my boyfriend's apartment, which is now my home too. From the moment I took my first sip of Léclapart's blanc de blancs L'Apôtre, I knew this was it (both the boyfriend and the champagne ;-)). The search for the ultimate natural champagne had ended before it had even begun, as I instantly knew nothing else would ever compare. There was magic in my glass, and if it wasn't for my embarrassment, I would've accidentally created my own cuvée by adding some tears. Who is David Léclapart and how does he sweep people off their feet without being in the same room? Find out on this page and scroll down for his impressive list of champagnes!
ps. want to know what it's like to participate in les vendanges at the Léclapart estate? Read my journal here.
Chef biodynamic preparations
Like many other champagne producers, David Léclapart studied viticulture in Avize and gained experience as a vineyard worker. To put it mildly: it didn't quite match his expectations. Things got better when he attended École d'Agrobiologie de Beaujeu in Beaujolais, where he learned about biodynamic farming and microbiology. This would change his take on champagne (and life) and it laid the groundwork for his current way of working. To gain work experience, David was hired at Leclerc Briant as chef biodynamic preparations. His talent was soon discovered, as he managed to take the biodynamic experiments of Leclerc Briant to the next level. And we all know how well that worked out.
The rocky start of Domain David Léclapart
When David took over the family domain in Trépail (Montagne de Reims), that's when fate struck. He immediately started implementing biodynamic principles in the vineyards, which made the vines vulnerable as they were suddenly without chemical protection. In the extremely difficult year of 1997, David lost the fight to mildew and a broke down tractor, so he told champagne journalist Caroline Henry in an interview. To make things worse, his champagne was rejected by the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée the year after. Fortunately, David didn't give up and in 2001, things turned around. Weather showed a more cooperative side of itself and the David Léclapart champagnes started winning prizes. From then on, David Léclapart was on a roll.
David Léclapart during a champagne tasting in Trépail
Biodynamic label & vision
All David Léclapart champagne is Ecocert and Demeter certified, and he describes his way of working as Pureté, Énergie, Plaisir et Écologie (purity, energy, fun and ecology). In his book A Scent of Champagne, Richard Juhlin describes it as "loving management". Everything is open for discussion, nature is leading and perfection is always work in progress. David is known for his emotional bond with his vines and champagne, and at critical points during the production process, he sometimes even sleeps in the cellar to keep a close eye on his treasure. He's a big fan of biodiversity in the vineyard, and has been experimenting with growing wheat and wild grass, and keeping sheep as natural lawnmowers. He uses both steel tanks and Burgundian oak barrels in the production process, and sometimes a combination (as is the case with L'Artiste).
Chardonnay in a challenging, Pinot Noir-focused region
One last interesting detail is that David is Chardonnay-focused in a Pinot Noir-focused region. This is thanks to the extraordinary location of his vineyards, that have only 15 to 30 inches of topsoil above the chalky bedrock. As a result, David's champagnes are lean, complex and high in acidity. In his book Champagne, Peter Liem says the following: "Léclapart's wines possess an uncommon complexity and vitality, and at their best, they number among the finest wines of the Montage de Reims."
Champagnes
L'Apôtre
| Location | Grape varieties | Spicy detail | Dosage | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pierre St. Martin Vineyard | 100% Chardonnay | Fizzy favourite | Brut nature | 9.9/10 |
Does it get any better than L'Apôtre? I think not. I still gave a 9.9 out of 10, as you never know what might happen in the future. But today, this Léclapart is an unsurpassed champagne, loaded with apples, tropical fruits (dare I say bananas?) and a fine acidity. This champagne won't give itself away, though: you have to be patient and let the champagne develop in your glass. When it does, it gets nicer and friendlier with every sip you take. Don't take L'Apôtre lightly: it deserves great timing, great atmosphere and great company.
L'Amateur
| Location | Grape varieties | Spicy detail | Dosage | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trépail, several vineyards | 100% Chardonnay | Vinified in steel tanks | Brut nature | 8.9/10 |
L'Amateur is a blend from several vineyards, explaining its balanced flavour palette. It's razor-sharp nonetheless, and elegant, and inviting, and, well, you get the picture. Although L'Amateur is a brut nature champagne (like all Léclapart champagne), it's quite round, too. Yet another lovely product from the magic kitchen in Trépail.
L'Artiste
| Location | Grape varieties | Spicy detail | Dosage | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Côte des Prés vineyard | 100% Chardonnay | 50% steel tanks 50% oak barrels | Brut nature | 9.6/10 |
L'Artiste is a mix between L'Amateur and L'Apôtre, making it a mild and friendly champagne. It has everything champagne lovers look for: green apples, almonds, brioche and, again, a fine acidity. Don't underestimate L'Artiste though: it's friendly, but still extraordinary. If L'Artiste was an American president, he'd be Barack Obama.
L'Astre
| Location | Grape varieties | Spicy detail | Dosage | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trépail, vineyard unknown | 100% Pinot Noir | Comes in a light bottle | Brut nature | 8.5/10 |
L'Astre comes in see-through bottles, which is remarkable as usually, champagne is sold in dark glass to protect it against sunlight. This champagne is all about apples, supplemented by minerals and a hint of brioche. The blanc de noirs is full if life and loves a mild cheese on the side.
L'Aphrodisiaque
| Location | Grape varieties | Spicy detail | Dosage | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trépail, vineyard unknown | Pinot Noir 80% Chardonnay 20% | It’s in the name! | Brut nature | 8.9/10 |
Forget oysters, forget chocolate: have yourself some L'Aphrodisiaque (ok I lied about the chocolate but I had to make a point). This champagne is a Pinot Noir- Chardonnay blend, and rumour has it that David created it as a last resort, trying to find a solution to a very bad year with very bad weather (update: I asked him and it’s true). L'Aphrodisiaque is a rare, complex champagne, with earthy undertones and a creamy finish. Not your everyday champagne, but a nice way to shake things up.
L'Alchimiste
| Location | Grape varieties | Spicy detail | Dosage | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trépail, vineyard unknown | 100% Pinot Noir | Rosé d’assemblage | Extra brut | 9.0/10 |
Alchemists have been looking in the wrong direction all along. It's not metal that can be turned into gold; it's grapes from Trépail. David Léclapart knows, hence the birth of his rosé champagne L'Alchimiste. In this champagne, you'll find a great mix of minerals, smokiness and red fruits: elements that make you feel like you're actually drinking from a pool of eternal life. Ok, enough with the analogies: L'Alchimiste is something you have to drink at least once.